Tie-Downs, Straps and Cargo Nets

Ratchet straps for dense, crush-proof cargo: firewood, tools, sandbags, a loaded plastic tote in a steel basket. They reach higher tension and hold it as the load settles over a long drive.

Cam straps for anything with a shell or a soft skin: a kayak, a paddleboard, a cargo box, a duffel, a cooler. Hand tension cannot deform what it is holding — a ratchet emphatically can, and dented hulls from over-tensioned ratchets are a common and avoidable problem.

Bow and stern lines for any long load, on top of the hull straps. They stop rotation, which the hull straps do not.

A cargo net over an open basket, on top of straps, to catch small items. Elastic under load stretches, so it is never the restraint itself.

Full comparison in ratchet vs cam buckle.

1. Anchor to structure. A hitch carrier’s welded loops and a basket’s frame are anchors. Mesh and plastic trim are not.
2. Strap in both directions. Down holds the load on; fore-and-aft stops it sliding under braking. The second is the one people skip.
3. Twist every exposed span. One or two twists stops the highway hum completely.
4. Deal with the tails. A loose tail at 70 mph strips paint and can reach a wheel.
5. Re-check after twenty minutes. This single step prevents most incidents, because everything settles.

Full sequences in how to tie down cargo and how to tie down a kayak.

Webbing is a consumable and it fails gradually rather than suddenly. Retire a strap when you see any of these, without trying to judge severity:

• Cuts, nicks or abrasion at the edges of the webbing
• Fading and stiffness, which is UV damage and invisible strength loss
• Damaged stitching, especially at the hook
• A bent hook, a cracked buckle, or a cam that slips when you pull the tail backward
• Chemical or fuel staining

Store them inside, out of sunlight. Straps left coiled on a roof rack through a summer lose real strength.